Lonicera periclymenum 'Serotina'
late Dutch honeysuckle
- Position: full sun or partial shade
- Soil: fertile, moist, well-drained
- Rate of growth: fast growing
- Flowering period: July to October
- Hardiness: fully hardy
A classic cottage-garden climber with large, fragrant, tubular, creamy-white flowers, streaked dark-red purple, that give it a two-tone appearance. In hot summers, the flowers may be followed by small, bright red fruits. This deciduous honeysuckle flowers later than most varieties, and will keep on producing scent and flowers for several weeks in late summer and autumn. It looks lovely scrambling over a wall or fence or growing through a robust tree and it prefers light shade.
- Garden care: Cut back established plants after flowering, removing a third of the flowering shoots. Apply a generous 5-7cm (2-3in) mulch of well-rotted compost or manure around the base of the plant in early spring.
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Q:Hello, I'm trying to decide which honeysuckle will be best to go on an East facing wildlife border. The site is between Apple trees but they are both kept small. It gets the sun all morning until about midday where it's gets dappled sun for an hour or two by a neighbouring larger tree and then light shade for the rest of he day.
I have foxgloves, alliums, lavender, lupins and grannies bonnet growing there and I want to add a climber that will be attractive to wildlife, scented and fairly neat growing.
I like the Serotina and the Rhubarb and Custard honeysuckle but I'm not sure which is best.Asked on 13/6/2015 by Pie from Minster on Sea
Unless you have a really large space to fill, I would opt for the Lonicera periclymenum Rhubarb and Custard.
http://www.crocus.co.uk/plants/_/lonicera-periclymenum-rhubarb-and-custard/classid.2000020958/Answered on 15/6/2015 by Helen from crocus
Q:I planted a Lonicera 'Serotina' in July against an east-facing wall which gets sun until around 2pm. Initially it thrived and grew quickly up to about 10 feet. About three weeks ago it developed white mildew: I have used a spray designed for this but it hasn't improved much - in fact the leaves have turned yellow and are dropping off the stem. It is completely bare up to about 3 feet. The growing tips still seem healthy though.
What can I do ?
MargaretAsked on 9/19/2013 by Maggie from West London
Loniceras are prone to powdery mildew. This is usually brought on by the plant being too dry at the base (very common as they are usually planted against a wall or a fence) with poor air circulation around the crown. The best thing you can do is to make sure it is kept well watered and pick off all the affected leaves, as this will stop the spores from over-wintering. Mulch the plant well in spring and autumn with well rotted farmyard manure to prevent the roots drying out. If possible, prune plants so they have an open shape and air can move through the branches. If the mildew is very bad you can spray with a systemic fungicide at the first signs of attack. You can also use this spray prior to any signs of the disease (next year), as a preventative measure. It might be worth keeping in mind though, that climbers do tend to get woody at their base. This is a natural part of their life cycle as most of the growing point (the tips) will be near the top of the plant.Answered on 9/19/2013 by Helen from Crocus
Can you recommend a variety of honeysuckle that I can grow in a pot on my patio? I'd like something by the door that is fragrant and will climb. The patio gets full sun in the morning and shade in the afternoon.
ThanksAsked on 4/3/2013 by GreyhoundGal from Sheffield
Your best option would be to choose one of the more compact cultivars such as Lonicera japonica Hall's Prolific' - please click on the following link to go straight to it.
You will however need a very large pot and make sure that the plant is kept well fed and watered if it is to thrive.Answered on 4/4/2013 by Helen from Crocus
Q:Vigorous climbing plants
Hi, I am looking for rapid growing climbers (evergreen and non-evergreen) that I can grow through trees without harming the host trees. The planting site is as follows:- -East facing but ultimately the aerial part of the growth will be facing west - Shaded at the base where the young plant will be started i.e.roots in shade but tip of young plant showing above adjacent hardstanding car park - Moist well draining soil Can you recommend some varieties? Many thanks, RogerAsked on 4/12/2010 by Roger Pirrie
A:Hello Roger, There are several that might be worth considering - here are some of the best. Clematis x triternata Rubromarginata http://www.crocus.co.uk/plants/_/climbers/clematis/normal-flowers/clematis-%C3%97-triternata-rubromarginata/classid.1000000212/ Clematis montana Pink Perfection http://www.crocus.co.uk/plants/_/climbers/clematis/normal-flowers/clematis-montana-var.-rubens-pink-perfection/classid.903/ Clematis montana var grandiflora http://www.crocus.co.uk/plants/_/climbers/clematis/normal-flowers/clematis-montana-var.-grandiflora/classid.905/ Clematis tangutica http://www.crocus.co.uk/plants/_/climbers/clematis/bell-shaped-flowers/clematis-tangutica-/classid.917/ Lonicera japonica Halliana http://www.crocus.co.uk/plants/_/climbers/honeysuckle/lonicera-japonica-halliana/classid.1678/ Lonicera periclymenum Serotina http://www.crocus.co.uk/plants/_/climbers/honeysuckle/lonicera-periclymenum-serotina/classid.1685/ I hope this gives you a few ideas. Helen Plant DoctorAnswered on 4/12/2010 by Crocus Helpdesk
Q:Plant for an east facing wall
Hi, Could you help me with the choice of plant for an east facing wall (it will get early morning sun). The wall is 8 foot high and 20 foot long. I liked the idea of a climbing Hydrangea but this appears to grow to 15 metres. Is there a similar evergreen plant that you could recommend? Many thanks SueAsked on 1/20/2010 by Sue Mather
A:Hi Helen Many thanks I think we will go for the Hydrangea Regards SueAnswered on 1/20/2010 by Crocus Helpdesk
A:Hello Sue, The Hydrangea is really quite slow growing and you can easily cut it back if it does get too big, so if you really like it, I would be tempted to go for it. Alternatively you could opt for one of the Loniceras or a Hedera, both of which can be trimmed back if they get over-large. I hope this helps. Helen Plant DoctorAnswered on 1/20/2010 by Sue Mather
Q:Plants to deter cats
Hello, my tiny terrace garden was recently made over at some expense but my 2 beloved moggies have ruined the one flower bed by using it as a loo-I am about to spend yet more money on having it cleaned up but how do I deter the cats from ruining it again? They are outdoor cats and use the catflap and there is nowhere indoors to put a litter tray anyway. Friends suggested several centimetres of woodchips? on the soil would put them off but I would value your advice before I invest. Also, which perfumed lilies are poisonous to cats?-or are they all? I am not thinking of poisoning the 2 moggies but I would like some lilies in pots but not if they are going to harm the cats. Also, suggestions of perfumed climbing shrubs that will stand shade. Many thanks SoniaAsked on 7/23/2009 by Sonia Richardson
A:Hello There, There are a couple of ways you can deter cats from the garden. Firstly you can plant lots of things that have spines or thorns, thus making it awkward for them to dig in - here are some of my favourites. Pyracantha's are ideal - this is a prickly wall shrub that has small white flowers which become fabulous red berries in autumn. http://www.crocus.co.uk/findplant/results/?CommonName=pyracantha Berberis is another good choice: http://www.crocus.co.uk/findplant/results/?CommonName=berberis Chaenomeles: http://www.crocus.co.uk/findplant/results/?CommonName=chaenomeles Ilex (holly): http://www.crocus.co.uk/findplant/results/?CommonName=ilex All of the above plants are evergreen (except Chaenomeles), so you will have year round interest. There are loads of cat deterrents on the market that work by scent or water. We have a few on our site. http://www.crocus.co.uk/products/_/tools/pest-control/cats/prcid.87/vid.484/ Other methods that you could try include sprinkling curry powder around the boundaries where they frequent, drying your used tea bags and then putting a few drops of eucalyptus oil on them before scattering in the garden. Orange peel when broken into small pieces and scattered around the borders works wonders and it's cheap as does grated, perfumed soap. As for the lilies, I think they are all quite toxic to cats, so they should be avoided. Finally, the best scented climbers for shade are the Loniceras - just click on the following link to go straight to them http://www.crocus.co.uk/search/_/search.lonicera/ I hope this helps and good luck! Helen Plant DoctorAnswered on 7/24/2009 by Crocus Helpdesk
Q:Why don't the climbers flower
My aunt aged 83 has a Jasmine and Honeysuckle growing beautifully up an east facing wall getting plenty of warmth and sunshine. They were planted about 5 1/2 years ago. The Jasmine flowered briefly in its second year of growth but hasn't flowered since and the Honeysuckle hasn't bloomed at all. Both plants are very healthy in every other respect. Can you please advise.Thanking you in anticipation. SarahAsked on 6/14/2009 by Sarah King
A:Hello there, The most likely cause is a lack of sun, although other factors could include pruning at the wrong time of the year, or not enough feed or water. If you want to give them a bit of a push, then feed them with Sulphate of Potash (following the manufacturers instructions).I hope this helps, Helen.Answered on 2/28/2012 by helen.derrin
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